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Types and categories of network cables: Cat5e, Cat6, Cat6A, Cat7 and Cat8

Tipos y categorías de cables de red: Cat5e, Cat6, Cat6A, Cat7 y Cat8
// TIPOS Y CATEGORÍAS DE CABLES DE RED: CAT5E, CAT6, CAT6A, CAT7 Y CAT8

Choosing a network cable means looking at two different things: the cable type (how it is built and whether it is shielded: UTP, FTP, S/FTP…) and its category (Cat5e, Cat6, Cat6A, Cat7 or Cat8), which sets the minimum performance it guarantees in speed, frequency and distance. This guide explains both, and which one suits a home, an office, PoE cameras or a rack.

Quick summary

  • Cat5e: enough for home Gigabit networks and simple connections.
  • Cat6: the balanced choice for home and office; 10 Gbps only over short runs.
  • Cat6A: the recommended choice for new installations: 10 Gbps up to 100 metres.
  • Cat7: more shielding; in patch cables with RJ45 connectors it performs like Cat6A.
  • Cat8: 25/40 Gbps over very short runs, for racks and data centres.

Choose your Ethernet cable in 30 seconds

Start with speed, environment and installation type:

View all Ethernet cables, RJ45 connectors and network accessories

Network cable categories: comparison table

CategoryFrequencySpeedDistanceRecommended use
Cat5e100 MHz1 Gbps (2.5 Gbps with compatible equipment)100 mHome, router, basic connections
Cat6250 MHz1 Gbps; 10 Gbps up to about 55 m100 mHome, office, gaming, home fibre
Cat6A500 MHz10 Gbps100 mOffices, new installations, PoE, racks
Cat7600 MHz10 Gbps100 mEnvironments with heavy interference
Cat82000 MHz25/40 Gbps30 mRacks, servers, data centres

The category sets the minimum the cable guarantees, but the link runs at the speed of its weakest element: network card, switch, router, wall socket or patch cable. A Cat8 cable plugged into a Gigabit router will still run at 1 Gbps.

A note on Cat7

Cat7 is a category of the international ISO/IEC 11801 standard (Class F), but not of the American TIA standard, and its original connector is not RJ45. The «Cat7» patch cables with RJ45 connectors commonly sold use very well shielded Cat7 cable, but in practice the link performs like Cat6A: 10 Gbps at 100 metres. They are a good choice where there is interference, not a jump in speed.

Types of network cable by shielding

Besides the category, a cable can be shielded or not. The ISO/IEC 11801 standard uses the X/YTP naming: the first letter is the overall shield of the cable and the second is the shield on each pair.

  • U/UTP (UTP): unshielded. More flexible and affordable; enough at home and in most offices.
  • F/UTP (FTP): an aluminium foil wraps all the pairs. Protection against moderate interference.
  • U/FTP: each pair has its own foil, with no overall shield.
  • S/FTP: overall braid plus foil on each pair. The highest protection, common in Cat7 and Cat8 and in industrial environments.
  • SF/UTP: overall braid and foil, with no per-pair shield.

A shielded cable only protects if the whole link is shielded: shielded RJ45 connectors, shielded wall sockets and patch panel, and an earth connection. We explain it step by step in the guide to crimping shielded RJ45 connectors.

How a network cable is made

  • Four twisted copper pairs: the twisting reduces crosstalk between pairs and external interference.
  • Solid or stranded conductor: solid (single wire) is for fixed installation through walls and trunking; stranded is for patch cables that are plugged and unplugged.
  • Thickness (AWG): 23–24 AWG for installation; 26–28 AWG for patch and slim cables, thinner but meant for short runs.
  • Sheath: PVC or LSZH, halogen-free with low smoke emission, recommended indoors and in public spaces.
  • 8P8C (RJ45) connector: the Ethernet standard. The wires follow T568A or T568B; what matters is using the same one at both ends.

For more detail on each component, see network cable materials and parts.

Avoid CCA cable (copper-clad aluminium): it is cheaper, but it has higher resistance, heats up with PoE and does not meet structured cabling standards. For fixed installation, always look for pure copper.

Which network cable to choose for your case

For home

With most home fibre connections, a copper Cat6 cable is the balanced choice: it uses the full Gigabit and leaves headroom if your provider raises the speed. Cat5e still works for simple connections.

For an office or small business

If you are cabling walls, trunking or a rack, think long term: Cat6A is ready for 10 Gbps at 100 metres and saves you from recabling. Terminate the installation on a patch panel with keystone modules of the same category.

For IP cameras, access points and PoE

PoE carries power over the same cable: up to 30 W per port with PoE+ and up to 90 W with PoE++ (802.3bt). Use pure copper cable, Cat6 or Cat6A, and avoid CCA. With several cameras on the same switch, Cat6A dissipates heat better in cable bundles. To choose the switch, see how to choose a PoE switch for IP cameras.

For outdoors

Between buildings or in the open you need a dedicated outdoor cable, with a sheath resistant to UV and moisture. We explain the differences in indoor vs outdoor cable.

For racks and high performance

In racks, servers or short links between switches, Cat6A is the norm; Cat8 only makes sense for 25/40 Gbps over runs of up to 30 metres with equipment that supports it.

Standards and certifications worth knowing

  • TIA-568 and ISO/IEC 11801: the structured cabling standards that define the categories, their performance and the wiring order.
  • CPR (Construction Products Regulation): in the EU, cables installed permanently in buildings must state their reaction-to-fire class (Eca, Dca, Cca…). We explain it in the CPR regulation guide.
  • UL and ETL: safety certification and performance verified by an independent laboratory.
  • RoHS and CE: compliance with the European directives on hazardous substances and electromagnetic compatibility.

Once installed, test every link. A network cable tester detects crossed wires, breaks and wiring-order errors; formal certification of a professional installation is done with a cabling certifier.

Common mistakes when choosing network cable

  • Choosing by category alone without checking length, shielding or whether it is pure copper.
  • Using very long runs of low-quality cable and expecting full speed.
  • Mixing good cable with lower-category connectors, wall sockets or patch panels.
  • Using shielded cable with unshielded connectors or no earth connection.
  • Not testing the cabling after installing it.
  • Buying Cat8 for home when the router and devices top out at 1 Gbps.

Frequently asked questions

What is the difference between Cat5e and Cat6?

Both deliver 1 Gbps at 100 metres, but Cat6 works at 250 MHz instead of 100 MHz, has less crosstalk between pairs and supports 10 Gbps over short runs. If you are buying new cable, Cat6 is the better choice.

Is Cat7 always better than Cat6?

Not necessarily. Cat7 adds shielding, but with RJ45 connectors it performs like Cat6A. For most networks, Cat6 or Cat6A is more practical and enough.

What cable do I need for 1 Gb fibre?

Cat5e works, but Cat6 is the better choice if you are buying new cable.

What cable do I need for 10 Gb?

Cat6A, which guarantees 10 Gbps up to 100 metres. Cat6 only reaches 10 Gbps over runs of about 55 metres at most.

Is Cat8 suitable for home use?

It works, but it is overkill: it is designed for 25/40 Gbps over runs of up to 30 metres inside a rack.

Can categories be mixed?

Yes, but the link will run at the level of the lowest category. In a new installation, keep the same category in cable, connectors and patch panel.

When should I use LSZH cable?

Indoors, in offices and in public spaces: in a fire it gives off less smoke and no toxic halogen gases.

Conclusion

To choose well, combine category, shielding type, distance and real use. You don't need the highest category, just the right one for your router, your switch and your installation: Cat6 at home, Cat6A in offices and new installations, shielded cable where there is interference, and pure copper whenever there is PoE.

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